Suneet Varma, a luminary in Indian couture, has redefined luxury and elegance over his illustrious three-decade career. Trained in Europe and shaped by an early stint with Yves Saint Laurent in Paris, Varma seamlessly fuses traditional Indian aesthetics with contemporary global trends. Renowned for his intricate embroidery, opulent fabrics, and feminine silhouettes, his designs captivate women seeking sophistication and fantasy.
Varma has been pivotal in showcasing Indian couture globally, with iconic presentations at India Couture Week and international fashion capitals like Paris, Milan, and New York. His creations, blending traditional lehengas and sarees with modern flair, are a favorite among brides, Bollywood stars, and global icons like Jennifer Lopez and Sarah Jessica Parker. His collaborations with Judith Leiber, BMW, and Swarovski highlight his versatility and innovative approach to design.
Committed to preserving Indian craftsmanship, Varma actively supports artisans and revives traditional textiles. Beyond fashion, his influence extends to media and cinema, hosting "Suneet Varma’s Style Guru" and designing costumes for acclaimed films like Monsoon Wedding, earning global recognition.
Suneet Varma embodies a bridge between Indian heritage and modern luxury, inspiring generations with his creativity, vision, and dedication to artistry. His name stands synonymous with timeless beauty and cultural pride. In this conversation, we delve into his creative process, inspirations, and the evolution of his illustrious career, offering a glimpse into the world of a true fashion icon.
What inspired you to pursue fashion design, and how has your journey evolved over the years?
Well, I was always an artistic child, you know, even through my earlier formative years at school. I always liked to draw, paint, sketch, debate, and read. I was very excited by history. I wanted to know more about other cultures, how people lived, which is also the reason why a lot of my collections are inspired by different cultures, Egyptian mythology, Greek painting, or art from different parts of the world, like the Renaissance.
I think I was meant to work within the arts. The very fact that I took up fashion design was due to the encouragement of my family. My father worked in textiles and understood the potential of design in clothing and textiles for the future. My family was very supportive and guided me toward this field. So, I would say a lot of credit goes to them.
Who were your biggest influences when you started your career in fashion?
I think my biggest influence was my father. He was very artistic, very worldly, and a double major in English literature. He traveled the world and brought back mementos, accessories, and stories that inspired me. For example, when I was three years old, I was drawing Cleopatra from a museum slate in Cairo with his help.
Another major influence was Mr. Martand Singh, India’s textile connoisseur. When I started my career at the age of 23-24, I met him, and he took me under his wing. He taught me everything from grassroots khadi fabrics to Banarasi textiles to working on international projects. He was a mentor and a big inspiration.
How would you describe your design philosophy in one sentence?
My design philosophy is young, exciting, sexy, and futuristic. Fashion belongs to the youth, and it should be current, relevant, and always looking to the future.
What role does Indian culture and heritage play in your creations?
As an Indian, it’s hard not to imbibe the heritage of India in my work. We are the oldest civilization in the world, with influences from mythology, scriptures, Ajanta-Ellora, the Taj Mahal, Islamic art, Mughal art, and so much more. Our heritage is rich with artistry, textiles, and jewelry, and I think it’s part of every Indian’s DNA. All of this naturally flows into my work.
Men are often considered fashion naive. Do you also feel that men are poor at appreciating fashion?
I wouldn’t say men are poor at appreciating fashion; rather, most men are not inclined toward it. They feel safer following a beaten path, but things are changing. Many men now care about how they look and present themselves, and they are becoming more fashion-conscious.
Do you feel that men’s fashion industry lags behind when compared to women’s fashion?
Yes, traditionally, men’s fashion has lagged. But as I said, it’s changing. Men are now excited about their appearance, and this shift is visible in the growing interest in men’s fashion trends and styles.
How do you define “timeless fashion”?
Timeless fashion is iconic. It’s something that continues to remain relevant and gets reinvented over the years. For instance, Jean Paul Gaultier’s work for Madonna keeps coming back. Similarly, I designed a breastplate in 1991, and it’s still in demand for photo shoots and magazine covers. True timeless fashion comes from the heart and withstands decades.
What makes a design truly iconic in the world of fashion?
An iconic design isn’t created intentionally; it emerges naturally when the design comes from a place of genuine creativity. It resonates with people and remains relevant even after years.
How has the global perception of Indian fashion changed over the years?
Indian designers like Gaurav Gupta, Rahul Mishra, and Sabyasachi have gained massive global recognition. Indian design is no longer a fleeting trend but a serious business. Indian designers are now recognized as masters of their craft, and this perception is only growing stronger.
How do you educate your clients to appreciate the craftsmanship and effort behind couture?
Educating clients comes down to showcasing the depth of Indian heritage and artistry. With global interest in Indian fashion increasing, clients naturally become more appreciative when they see the effort, precision, and creativity behind each piece.
What role does storytelling play in your collections?
Storytelling is integral. It connects the designs to history, culture, and personal narratives. Whether it’s through music, the set, or the accessories, each collection tells its own story.
What’s your favorite part of the design process, from concept to completion?
Every collection is a challenge. I enjoy difficult ideas and tedious solutions. It’s a process where concepts evolve, and sometimes the smallest idea grows into the highlight of a collection. The collaboration of music, styling, and creativity makes the process even more fulfilling.
Which one of your collections do you feel best represents your artistic vision?
My artistic vision is represented in every collection. I don’t rest on past laurels; I strive to challenge myself with each new project.
What has been your most challenging collection to date, and how did you overcome those challenges?
Every collection is a challenge, but it’s the evolving ideas and problem-solving within a project that make it rewarding. I tackle challenges by adapting and letting the creative process guide me.
How has technology, such as AI or digital fashion shows, influenced your creative process?
Technology has opened up new avenues for creativity, from AI-assisted design to digital fashion shows. It allows us to push boundaries and reach a wider audience while experimenting with innovative techniques.
How can someone cultivate an eye for recognizing quality and artistry in fashion?
It’s about paying attention to the details—the fabric, the craftsmanship, and the story behind each design. Understanding all the elements that go into making a garment helps develop an appreciation for artistry.
How do you approach designing for different types of clients, from celebrities to everyday fashion enthusiasts?
I tailor my designs to fit the client’s personality and needs. Whether it’s a celebrity or an everyday fashion enthusiast, I aim to create something unique and reflective of their individuality.
What is your take on the rise of sustainable and ethical fashion in recent years?
Sustainability is crucial for the future of fashion. It challenges designers to innovate while being mindful of their environmental and ethical impact.
What advice would you give to someone looking to build a personal style that reflects their individuality?
My advice is simple: love what you do. If you don’t have a genuine passion for fashion, you won’t survive its highs and lows. Don’t pursue it for glamour or attention; focus on the craft and creativity. Build a style that feels authentic to you.